Hamburg, Through the Sustainable Lens

Hamburg City Hall

Just as promised, today we toured the city of Hamburg using public transport and walking, and we shopped and had an incredibly enjoyable and eye-opening experience.

We began our day walking through the streets of the city, passing shop after shop. Among the storefronts, the ones that stood out to me most were McDonald’s, H&M, Balenciaga, and New Yorker. Each storefront was thoughtfully designed and visually engaging.

Along the way, we passed multiple cathedrals, and our guide shared with us the rich cultural and historical significance of each site. I learned that during World War II, much of Hamburg was bombed, and as a result, many of the original buildings were destroyed and had to be rebuilt. That’s why it’s rare to see architecture from earlier periods. Still, some cathedrals and buildings have been carefully reconstructed and preserved-including St. Nikolai’s Church, which we visited. We arrived at the church just in time to hear the organ (or perhaps bells) play Ode to Joy, along with a few other pieces I didn’t recognize. The churches that we visited each had their character, and St. Nikolai’s reminded me of Neo-Gothic architecture. Although reconstructed, parts of the church remained intact after the war, preserving a powerful reminder of Hamburg's past.

Later, we visited Hamburg City Hall and emerged into a beautiful courtyard with a large fountain in its center. The fountain featured statues of men and women seated around it, surrounding a tall, bronze-green woman at the top. It almost looked as if they were gathered around her, praying, and rightly so. Our guide explained she represented Hygieia, the Greek goddess of health and hygiene, and the fountain was fittingly named the Hygieia Fountain.

We eventually found ourselves walking along the river. The buildings surrounding us were tall, detailed, and elegant, a stark contrast to the often repetitive housing of American suburbs. It made me reflect on how much architectural individuality has been lost in many places back home. As someone who appreciates a blend of styles and architecture that portrays history, I found Hamburg’s buildings far more interesting than cookie-cutter houses.

We weren’t the only ones exploring the city — it was busy with fellow tourists, and we had to weave our way through the crowds. The city’s layout felt very different from what I’m used to in my small hometown. There seemed to be more efficient use of space, with multiple housing units in a single building, and far fewer cars associated with each residence.

One noticeable difference was the fact that most people who drove cars were extremely well-off, which our guide later explained was because driving is a privilege in Germany. Residents aren’t allowed to drive until they’re 18, driving school is expensive, and owning a car is considered a luxury. While that may seem limiting from an American standpoint, it also contributes to the city’s sustainability and walkability — two things Hamburg is proud of.

For lunch, we were given time to explore a local mall, and let me just say, it was nothing like the malls I’m used to. There was a wide variety of shops and restaurants. With the Euro-to-Dollar conversion rate, everything felt more affordable, and unlike in the U.S., no tax was added at checkout. The price you see is the price you pay. My group eventually found a Korean Barbecue restaurant, where we ordered boba and fries topped with cheese, onions, and kimchi. 

After our lunch, it began to rain, something we had been expecting all week. Thankfully, it didn’t last long, and I don’t mind the rain anyway. Our umbrellas and rain jackets came in handy, and we continued on our way.

Our final activity of the day was a sustainability tour led by our guide in a neighborhood called "Veddel", which is often thought of negatively due to crime and poverty. Our guide explained that while Hamburg strives to be a sustainable city, it still has its challenges, and Veddel illustrates some of those.

In this, we learned about the three pillars of sustainability: ecological, social, and economic. True sustainability must meet all three criteria, but the pillars in Veddel fall short. The history of the neighborhood is tied to Hamburg's role as a shipping hub. It was once home to many seamen, and foreign workers from Austria and Turkey were brought in for labor. These workers were underpaid and faced discrimination, highlighting how economic inequality undermines city development.

I had a thought: many nations, not just the U.S., have been shaped by discrimination and gentrification. But what matters most is what we choose to build on top of that history.

One of the most memorable sites we saw was The Golden House, also known as The Golden Wall, a house covered in 24-karat gold leaf. It was created by artist Boran Burchhardt to symbolize the economic disparity within the community. It made me consider how sustainability isn’t just about the environment, it is about economic justice as well.

We also visited Poliklinik Veddel, a community-run health center designed to meet the needs of residents. In a lower-income area like Veddel, this kind of community is important. The center is government-funded, but it also thrives on community support and events. It struck me how different this is from the American healthcare system. In the U.S., healthcare is often inaccessible and far from sustainable. Germans do not have to pay for healthcare (I know right). Veddel’s model proves that we can thrive on sustainability as a community.

Our final stop was a set of sustainable housing units. While impressive on the surface, we were encouraged to look deeper, and we found that even the most environmentally friendly projects have their flaws. Sustainability is not something that is finished; it’s a process.

After a long but rewarding day, we returned to our hostel for dinner, played some card games, and got ready for tomorrow’s adventure, which includes a visit to the U.S. Consulate, a Greenpeace workshop, and a late-afternoon carnival here in Hamburg.